I’ve been putting off blogging about Ireland because I just don’t know how I can possibly
express all of the things it was to me, all of the things that happened there. But it is the next place on my journey, and it’s about time. We went to three main places—Dublin, Sligo, and Belfast—and each place was completely different from the last but all so intrinsically Irish.
Dublin
We began the stay in Dublin, staying in a nice hotel off of O’Connell Street, north of the Liffey around where James Joyce, one of the writers we are studying, lived during his childhood. I got a different sense in Dublin than any of the other cities visited so far. It was more gritty—the people had a sort of hardened look around their eyes, which makes sense. Irish history is very confusing, but to sum it all up, they’ve had a hard time of it. The political, social, and religious history has been riddled with violence and turmoil since the late 1500s, and it is that history that the Irish people have struggled through … and it has made them tough.
The first day there, I went to the National Gallery (how many of those have I been to now?), and saw an Edvard Munch exhibit there that was very moving for me. From there, me and some friends saw the Oscar Wilde statue and walked up Grafton Street, which is the main shopping area. That night, four of us girls went out to a nice dinner with our professor and his wife, who have been so great to get to know. We split from them afterward and walked down Temple Bar, which is the main pub area in Dublin. Throughout our night, I came to find that Dubliners (ie people from Dublin) are some of the most friendly people I’d encountered so far, and also the most convicted on political and social matters. They are more informed on American and World politics than I am! I met some really wonderful, memorable people, with strong philosophies about life. These people really made my time in Dublin.
The second day, our group actually left the city to go to Glendalough, a lovely old monastery set on acres of mountainous green land in the Irish countryside. I went off by my myself for much of the time, walking and writing and taking photos. We got back in the city to find that it was “Guinness Day”—the Irish celebration of the 250th anniversary of Guinness beer. The tradition is that at 5:59 PM, everyone in Dublin is supposed to raise a pint of Guinness honor of Arthur Guinness, the inventor. Then they spend the whole rest of the night drinking Guinness. At 5:59, I was in my hotel room with the windows open and heard a huge cheer throughout the whole city. It was a pretty cool, Irish moment—even if it was just all about beer.
Many members of our group chose this night to go on a Literary Pub Tour—where these actors lead a group of people to 4 different pubs that were once frequented by Irish authors of old. Of course, since it was Guinness Day, the pubs were very crowded. It was a fun time though, and the actors did a great job adding a literary flair to a pub tour.
The last day in Dublin, I headed to the Irish Writers Museum and walked around a bit more. That night was “Culture Night”, so a few friends and I went to an outdoor music and poetry performance for a little while.
Sligo
At Sligo, which is on the west coast of Ireland, we stayed in rural self catering cottages at a beautiful bed and breakfast. It was set in the woods and basically a few hundred meters from the ocean (Sligo Bay). I walked that beach many times, and never saw another soul, so it was like my own private beach. Since we were back out of the city, it meant more schoolwork and classes—we wrote two papers in our time there. The rest of the time was spent hanging out with great roommates and friends, walking on the beach, climbing another mountain (not nearly as big as Snowdon, but still cool), reading W.B. Yeats, and cooking meals together. Also, it was my 21st birthday while in Sligo! My friends and I had dinner together, and then the whole group learned traditional Irish dancing from this great Irish couple. It was a perfect birthday activity—Irish dancing was complicated at first but we all caught on and laughed pretty much the whole time. Afterward, some of us went for a quick swim in the Irish Sea to cool off. It worked.
Belfast
Belfast was completely different from any other place since instead of being together with the whole England Term group, we split off to stay with host families. We were connected with families who go to Fisherwick Presbyterian Church in Belfast, and I, along with my friend Katy, stayed with the Kennedy family. The parents were probably in their early 40s, Peter and Carolyn, both doctors, and the kids were Adam, 12, and Juliette, 9. They had such a nice house, in a little more suburban area. Katy and I had our own room that smelled wonderful, and Carolyn did so much to make us feel at home and give us everything we’d been missing—warm meals, tea all the time, long showers, huge fluffy towels, and hot water bottles to sleep with. The kids adored us and we adored them, and hung out with them the whole time. Peter took us on a driving tour of Belfast, we watched one of Adam’s rugby games, and played outside with the kids in the glorious, windy fall weather. It was refreshing to interact with a family and ask cultural questions we couldn’t ask else where. For example, I kept finding people in Ireland and sometimes England would, as a greeting as, “Are you alright?” To me, that sounds like “Are you Ok??? Is something wrong?” so I would always answer, “Um, yeah?” but figured it must mean basically “How are you?” I asked my host dad, and he said the proper response is “Grand!” So, there you go.
I also got a few more lessons in Irish history and am slowly putting the pieces together of what happened between the Catholics (marginalized and put in lower-class) and Protestants (elite), those who wanted Ireland to rule themselves and those who wanted to be united with England. It’s all very complex and I don’t think I could ever understand all of it.
All in all, the best thing about Ireland was the people. Out of all the places I’ve been so far, they were the most apt to strike up conversations, the most hospitable, and the most memorable. On this trip, we’ve been moving so much it’s been hard to have good conversations with people from these places. In Ireland, for some reason, it happened so easily and its something I’ll always remember about the Irish.